Vegetal Filling Sphere:
Vegetale Filling Sphere... State of the art.
VegetaleFilling Spheres: Filling from the sea.
An unavoidable consequence of time is that the skin becomes thin, stretches and covered with blemishes.
Connective fibers tend to agglutinate, the skin loses firmness and elasticity, fine lines appear on the surface and then deepen, ultimately giving rise to wrinkles.
Although aging of the skin is the visible traitor, this is merely one of the aspects of our body's aging... evidently aggravated by a more or less "faulty lifestyle (alcohol, tobacco...) and exposure to UV radiation from the sun.
This UVA and UVB radiation, however, is desired by our modern life where vacation is king. UV radiation attacks the membranes of cells and the DNA they contain, and beyond interfering with their functions, high doses can transform them into cancer cells.
Free radicals also appear to play a role in skin aging and this is why cosmetics manufacturers are also interested in all molecules that can neutralize them.
Although biological age can theoretically be an objective criterion of human health, and by extension a means of predicting the course of the aging process, this is not true in practice. Biological, or functional age, and chronological age do not always coincide and physical appearance is often a better source of information than physiological status and the age of the subject.
"Senescence is not a slope all of us descend at the same speed. It is in fact a series of irregular steps that some people go down faster than others".
Our skin is the initial instrument of communication towards others and betrays our apparent age. Every additional line at the corners of the eyes or lips is the reward of 2 or 3 additional years!
FACED WITH THIS, we have several possible strategies:
The first arm - the only tool available in fact! -is simply... prevention. This process must be started in childhood, avoiding excessive exposure to the sun and using sunscreens.
Even though prevention is indispensable, it does not respond to all current needs...and above all it is often too late: the damage has been done and we are more in the long corridor of repair.
Research has thus accelerated in several directions and today's variety of "solutions" proposed is in the rang of the most trivial to the most "interventionist".
Let us start with the "heavy artillery": surgical treatment.
- Plastic surgery proposes re-firming tissues or filling in thinned zones - wrinkles - with two types of injectable / filling products. The first are bovine collage biological products (almost pure type 1 collagen, whose peptide ends have been removed to render it antigenically inactive) or hyaluronic acid (rooster comb extract), that is also the most abundant glycosaminoglycan (GAG) in young people. The second are chemicals such as silicone, mixtures of bovine collagen and methyl methacrylate microparticles, but they are not without risk since they are a potential source of complications with varying severity.
- In parallel to these relatively "simple" techniques, surgery remains a possibility for implanting synthetic products such as textile fibers or gold thread, or even autograft composed of dermis, fat or fascia (muscle insertion fibers) taken from the patient. It should be noted that autocollagen obtained from fat removed by liposuction can be reinjected only in the donor and even so, the results do not last indefinitely.
- Finally, it is difficult to end the inventory of plastic surgery techniques without talking about phytothermolysis. In this field, "resurfacing laser" or "laser smoothing" uses the power of computers (pulsed scanner) to attack wrinkles precisely, much as smart bombs. The depth of wrinkle destruction is calculated automatically by the laser that produces a highly localized vaporization without damaging adjacent tissues. The procedure can be conducted under local anesthesia for isolated wrinkles or anesthetic premedication when the area to treat is larger (lips, eyelids). It is of course possible to combine this technique with a much more invasive surgical procedure: face lifting.
The claimed objective of many cosmetic products for many years has been to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and to reduce their impact.
Up to the present time, there has been considerable progress in methods for investigating the skin, whether they are physical and non-invasive or biological on biopsies. This has led to considerable progress in non-invasive methods for measuring the "anti-wrinkles" efficacy of preparations. In addition to these 2D and 3D profilometry methods that are image analyses, there are now methods in vivo that do not involve making skin replicas.
The classification of "treatment" products involves varying principles. Some claim a "biological" action on the thickness and/or properties of the different skin layers. Others act on more physicochemical aspects and produce a flattening of the skin surface. Finally, other products act via optical effects that mask or simply render the wrinkle less apparent.
Between the two extremes, there is a gap... to fill!
A NON-INVASIVE ALTERNATIVE TO SURGERY: Vegetale Filling Spheres.
The principle of cosmetic filling was born in 1993 and is based on using spheres of Vegetale origin that can provide volume to the superficial layers of the epidermis.
The process is effective: after penetrating lines, the spheres trap water in the surface layers and swell, leading to a surface smoothing effect.
The battle against wrinkles, the most visible external signs of skin aging, remains one of the leitmotifs of dermato / cosmetology research. We are now capable of limiting the esthetic disadvantages of an excessive number of wrinkles by the use of several methodological approaches.
The most radical among them is face lifting. This procedure proposes smoothing the skin by an operation.
This solution is rarely considered because of its high cost, and even so provides only temporary repair of skin tissue and does not take into account the etiology, or the origin of the wrinkles.
A longer term solution is possible by the use of "anti-wrinkles" cosmetic products that act specifically on the targets of skin aging. This effectively and durably reduces the number and depth of wrinkles.
The last approach is complementary to the preceding. It proposes to temporarily flatten skin relief by the use of bio-compatible materials that can "fill" wrinkles and lines.
COLETICA proposes Marine Filling Spheres that combine these facts with another current trend in cosmetology market that gives preference to effects that are increasingly more rapidly visible.
Wrinkle filling care and cosmetics
The slackeining of skin tissue or an excess of skin on the neck and cheeks is treated preferentially by surgery. It is a face lift for the slackeing of the lower face (jowls, neck) or the forehead, blepharoplasties for the eyelids, etc.
Most often, however, other "lightweight" methods are used before or as a compliment to these techniques. They are use to act on other signs of skin aging, wrinkles and lines: abrasion and filling methods.
The former are used to eliminate the superficial layer of the epidermis marked by lines. There is a dual effect of this peeling, dermoabrasion and other "laser resurfacing". In addition to the flattening of skin relief obtained, the new skin regenerated in response to the treatment is smoother and finer. The latter involve filling lines and wrinkles, even adding volume by implanting injectable materials, resorbable or not.
In the first case, i.e. resorbable, the products injected under facial wrinkles and lines (collagen, hyaluronic acid, polylactic acid, elastin) are progressively eliminated by the organism and the resulting correction lasts only 6 to 9 months. In the case of injectable non-resorbable products, the results persist for several years.
In both cases, the material injected is either synthetic or the patient's own adipose tissue taken from another site in the body (generally from the hips, abdomen or thighs).
In this case, we speak of the filling technique. It can be done under local anesthesia and has the advantage of using a natural product with no side effects (allergic reaction for example).
Even though all these techniques have many advantages, they nevertheless involve surgery, are obviously invasive and are very costly.
Based on these methods, COLETICA proposes a non-invasive filling technique that uses perfectly bio-compatible material of plant origin: Vegetal Filling Spheres.
Vegetal Filling Spheres are composed of wheat protein, a polymer that is perfectly tolerated by skin tissue. They smooth wrinkles and lines almost immediately, at the same time as durably increasing hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis.
The mechanism of action of these spheres is simple. They are incorporated in a dehydrated form in cosmetic formulations. When applied to the skin, they enter micro-depressions (wrinkles, lines) where they progressively rehydrate by taking up water that evaporates from the skin by the well known phenomenon of Transepidermal Water Loss (TWL). See Figure 1.
The strategy adopted for the development of Vegetal Filling Spheres is built around two major and complementary orientations:
- The choice of bio-compatible material with high water binding capacities,
- The evaluation in vivo of their hydrating effect and anti-wrinkle capacity.
VEGETAL FILLING SPHERES-Description:
Vegetal Filling Spheres are composed of one very high molecular weight biopolymer known for its hydrating and film-forming capacities: wheat protein.
These spheres are very small (<100 um) and can penetrate the deep layers of the Stratum corneum, where they swell by taking up water evaporating from the skin via the phenomenon of transepidermal water loss.
When the spheres swell, they provide increased volume to skin structures and smooth surface imperfections.
Choice of bio material
For centuries, phytotherapy has attributed a wide range of properties to wheat extracts for external and internal applications.
Proteins used in Vegetal Filling Spheres have a high molecular weight (over 100,000 Daltons) which, in addition, confers filmogenic and hydrating properties. Basic amino-acids (arginine and lysine) in wheat peptide chains, and keratin in the skin or the hair, align more closely. Once alignment is effective, wheat protein is able to bind covalently with the keratin chains by disulfide bridges between the sulfated amino-acids of the wheat protein and those of the keratin.
Initial studies conducted during the development of Vegetal Filling Spheres demonstrated the extraordinary potential of this structure to increase its volume in response to hydration (figure 2). The volume of this bio-material increases considerably when they contact water!
Observation under light microscopy
The capacity of Vegetal Filling Spheres to increase the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis was determined in a study that included 15 healthy volunteers.
Before, and 2, 5 and 8 hours after application of a formulation containing 1% Vegetal Filling Spheres, skin hydration of the volunteers was measured with a technique called "Transitory Thermic Transfert". The originality of this innovating technique is to differentiate epidermis hydration from the upper to the medium layers of the epidermis.
The effect of Vegetal Filling Spheres in this experiment was compared to that of 3% glycerol in the same formulation.
As we can see (figure 3), hydration observed with Vegetal Filling Spheres is a hydration which is not only in surface, as it is observed with the glycerol, but which reaches equally the epidermis deepest layers.
Acting as real sponges in the whole epidermis structure, Vegetal Filling Spheres are able to trap the water usually evaporated by TEWL and are able to strongly and durably increase the hydration of epidermis layers.
Vegetal Filling Spheres induce a strong hydration of the upper and medium layers of the epidermis.
A 22% to 27% superiority is observable in this experiment in comparison with the hydration obtained with the positive control formulation, containing 3% glycerin.
In addition to their effect on hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis, Vegetal Filling Spheres should also swell and smooth the surface of the skin tissue.
Materials and Methods:
Assessment of the Vegetal Filling Sphere ability to strengthen the barrier effect and to moisturze the cutaneous surface is measured with a technic called "Transitory Thermic Transfert".
This technique is based on the water's ability to propagate a thermic wave: a probe, applied on volunteer forearms, sends a thermic wave and measures the propagation speed of this wave with a microcaptor. The thermic wave will propagate all the more rapidly as cutaneous tissues will be rich in water.
The originality of this innovating technique is to differentiate epidermis hydration from the upper to the medium layers of the epidermis. 15 volunteers are following the study, and measurements are performed before one standardized application of tested preparations, then 2, 5 and 8 hours after this application.
One emulsion containing 1% of Vegetal Filling Spheres is evaluated for its properties to moisturize the different epidermis upper layers. On the other hand, the same emulsion containing 3% of glycerin, used as a positive control for the study, is evaluated.
The hydration results are expressed in respect to a non treated symmetric control zone.
Immediate anti-wrinkles action.
Test performed on the marine version of Filling Spheres
The capacity of Filling Spheres to smooth the skin's surface was determined in a study that included 30 healthy volunteers.
Before, and 1 hour after application of a formulation containing 1% Filling Spheres on the crow's feet of volunteers, their effect on micro-relief was determined.
The results (Figure 4) show that in only 1 hour, Filling Spheres formulated at 1% significantly reduced:
- The mean length of wrinkles: -12%
- The total length of wrinkles: -27%
- The total surface of wrinkles: -31%
- In the same experimental conditions, the placebo formulation caused no significant decrease of these parameters.
In the same experimental conditions, the placebo formulation caused no significant decrease of these parameters.
The use of Filling Spheres formulated at 1% thus fills wrinkles and lines of the crow's feet in only 1 hour.
Materials and Methods:
30 healthy volunteers were included in this double blind study.
15 volunteers applied a formulation containing 1% Filling Spheres on the face and the other 15 volunteers used a placebo formulation.
Before and 1 hour after application of the formulations, a replica of one of the crow's feet of each volunteer was made with a silicone resin (Silflo, Flexico Developments Ltd., Great Britain).
All the replicas were analyzed with the method of projected shadows. Replicas were positioned on a holder and illuminated by constant illumination at a 25 degree angle. Digital images of the replicas were acquired with a digital camera in uniform conditions of illumination and focal length. Images were processed with dedicated software. After black/white binary conversion, subtraction of background and thresholding, the following parameters were determined:
- Mean length of wrinkles
- Total length of wrinkles
- Total surface of wrinkles.
The significance of the results was determined with Student's t test for paired date. The threshold of significance was set at P < 0.05 (*: P<0.05; **: P<0.01).
Wheat protein used in Marine Filling Spheres is perfectly safe for skin tissue.
As a result of its physiochemical properties, this polymer binds large quantities of water in the superficial layers of the epidermis. Vegetal Filling Spheres developed by COLETICA thus increase the level of hydration of skin tissue at the same time as smoothing its surface.
It is very interesting to observe that the effects resulting from the application of Vegetal Filling Spheres to the surface of the skin are almost immediate and long lasting.
Vegetal Filling Spheres today are an effective solution to extend the cosmetic industry anti-wrinkles arsenal.